Sunday, August 5, 2007
Alebrije (a-lay-bree-hay)
So some of you might know that the main impetus for coming to Oaxaca was to buy some "alebrijes" or painted animals that are made only here. I have collected them for a while and have always wanted to come directly to the source to purchase some, and on Friday I finally got to do that. My mom and I joined a trip with my school to the village of Arrazola, which is one of the 2 main villages here in Oaxaca where the animals are made. I was extremely excited about finally getting to do some shopping since I had been holding off till the time that my mom arrived.
Miguel, the school's driver drove us about 30 minutes outside of Oaxaca city. When we arrived we found a rather uninteresting town that was basically empty of any tourists or visitors (so sad considering how much their economy depends on tourist dollars). Each shop was very minimal, usually just a small table and some shelves at the front of the family's house. Sometimes we would follow a sign into a artist family's backyard and then into their house. We quickly noticed a young boy, about 7 or 8 years old, following us around. We didn't know him, nor did he introduce himself, but we later realized that he was our "guide" and he took us (lead us) into each house/store. I asked him his name and he mumbled out 4 or 5 names (his full name) and unfortunately I wasn't able to catch what he said. We tipped him in the end for all of his hard work... walking with us for a few hours (hee hee hee). I have a cute pic of him but it's a vertical photo and won't post correctly.
I walked with my mom and friends Christine and Jamie. The other mother/daughter team from Belgium were with us too and I could see my mom getting to know the mom better as they chatted in the van. So anyway... my initial shopping impression was a feeling of "over-stimulation". There just were soooo many of the little animals that it was hard to zero in on the ones that drew my eye to them. We went from shop to shop thinking that we should wait to buy until we saw more of them... which turned out to be an ill-fated plan because we were desensitized by the end of the shopping trip after having seen so many of the same thing (yet all unique!). My mom disappeared from our group at one point and we later found out that she had negotiated a purchase of a large beautiful peacock that she had had her eye on. The artist showed her how to take it apart and they photographed him with the piece. She was very proud of her purchase and can't wait to put it together at home. I bought a few small animals but nothing big stuck out in my mind. They weren't as cheap as I had hoped (at least not the big ones), and even though they are probably 50% cheaper here, they still can be pretty pricey... the big ones being upwards of $100. I loved the ones I bought, but still felt I hadn't purchased the "motherlode" as I had hoped, but I wasn't worried because on Saturday we had a guide taking us out to San Martin Tilcajete, another village for alebrijes.
That night we had dinner with all of my friends that I met through the school. Even Mike and Vanessa had returned from the beach and joined us. We had preplanned a farewell dinner since so many of them were leaving the next day. There must have been 12 people or so, and we all ate and drank and had a great time! I even tried some of the "chapulines" or grasshoppers that are a staple for Oaxacans. No big deal... they were tiny and mixed with spices. Couldn't really tell that I was eating insects... but I WAS!!! (see blurry photo of insects on a piece of chicken)
My mom enjoyed meeting all the nice people that I had met so far. Earlier in the day my stomach had begun to feel uneasy, and it worried me...
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